Life is a train journey

Sunday, 1 June 1997

The train quietly slipped into the station just past midnight. I shared a compartment with some Koreans, a Canadian friend and his Australian girlfriend, and a somewhat aggressive drunk acquaintance.

The station looked abandoned. In the waiting room was a TV and a VCR. Scarface with Al Pacino was showing, but there was something wrong with the display.

It was hot. A storm was brewing somewhere in the distance, and the wind was pulling at the wooden frame mirror next to the window.

Another part of my journey was over, and another part had begun. The station’s name: JUNE 1997.


Trip to the countryside, South Korea – June 1997
With two students – June 1997
With co-teacher and students – June 1997
Lunch with a friend – June 1997
Living room – June 1997
Temple in the countryside – June 1997

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Phases and queries

Thursday, 27 March 1997

I just read a few entries from last year. How things have changed!

Anyways, maybe I should start with a breakdown of my situation on 27 March 1997. I have about two million won [USD2000/R10,000] in the bank, ₩28,000 [USD28/R140] in my wallet, and ₩320,000 [USD320/R1,600] in my closet. Next week is payday again – about ₩840,000 [USD840/R4,200]. I’ve been in Korea for almost nine months. After months of longing, plans to go home early and being fed up with life in Korea I have reached a plateau – a very comfortable plateau.

I reckon I have so far gone through four phases: The first phase was one of discovery and adaptation (about three months); then the “Shit! It’s still so long before I can go home!” phase (about three months); the phase of neutrality – you’re not overly positive about the place but you’re not that negative either (about two months); and finally, the stage of comfort and security when you say, “Hey, with a few extra posters on the wall, some extra clothing and so on I can easily stay another year!”

This most recent phase is not bad at all. I have money in the bank, the days and weeks go by with monotonous regularity, and my living and working conditions are comfortable. I’m used to everything by now – my job, my room, my bed, my social activities. And the fact that one has money in the bank and you’re earning a salary … who’d want to leave a situation like this?

That’s my problem – a completely new, uncharted existential crisis. Should I move on, exactly because I might be getting too comfortable, with a sense of security that is almost exclusively based on the continuation of my current situation, or should I cherish the sense of security I am currently experiencing for as long as it lasts?

Is it time to move on, because the stepping stone is getting smooth underfoot, and I must be careful I don’t slip, or is it a case of not killing the goose that lays the golden eggs?

Is Korea still just a stepping stone for Europe, or is it a stepping stone towards a position where I could really make some choices?

Last comment: I must remain ready to move along on short notice.

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Today is primitive – learn to appreciate it

Sunday, 16 March 1997

Thought for the day: Appreciate the primitiveness of the world you live in now.

Instead of stepping into the past and appreciating how things were at an earlier time, consider the future and imagine how things will be fifteen, twenty, or a hundred years from now. Then step back into the present and appreciate how “old” everything is – from toilets to computers, and telephones, newspapers, books, matches, lighters, cigarettes, screw caps, writing utensils, cars, buses, bicycles, toilet paper, clothes, refrigerators, radios, doors with locks and keys, clocks with hands, beds, bedding, movies in theatres, TVs, wine, beer, steaks and chips, dishes, laundry, razors and shaving cream, tapes, CDs, 14-hour flight overseas, letters with stamps (“people would buy small pictures that were worth a certain amount of money, then the picture was lightly pressed on the tongue to activate the adhesive, and then pasted in the corner of something called an envelope), journals in which a person makes entries at 02:30 in the morning …

I mean, just look at how much things have changed in the last hundred years! Can you imagine how things will change in the next hundred years with the tools of technological advancement created in this century!

Question: Where do so-called social revolutionaries fit in the future?

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I feel home, hear the seconds tick by, but think long-term

Thursday, 16 January 1997

It’s very strange. I think the effect of 25 hot Januaries in South Africa is beginning to take its toll. I’m here in the northern hemisphere where the temperature ranges between minus five and five degrees Celsius, but my spirit isn’t here. It’s eating garlic pizza and drinking Black Label somewhere in Stellenbosch. It’s sitting in, of all places, Pongola’s Wimpy Bar with [my younger sister]. I am everywhere in the warm Cape, despite the fact that I am freezing in Korea at the moment.

The funny thing is, I really feel those places – I experience them!

I think the positive association with summer has to do with the fact that I will be leaving Korea and will return to South Africa when the weather starts heating up here.

Conclusion? The warmer it gets in Chonju, the closer I am to going home.


Saturday, 15 February 1997

(Six o’clock in the morning, Seoul train station)

This is how it is: Wednesday evening it transpired after a discussion with [my boss’s son] that there was a misunderstanding about the airplane ticket. He had asked his mother if she would be willing to buy me a ticket to go home after a year … for a holiday. At that time she was still considering it.

It was only after the conversation that I started thinking. I have never actually thought of the possibility of going home on vacation after a year and then returning to Chonju. I had talked with [the South African guy whom I had met in Seoul on the day I arrived] earlier the evening, and he mentioned that he was planning to take home about R50,000.

That put me in the mood to play around with the idea. What would I do if I were to stay another year after all?

I thought of subscriptions to newspapers and magazines, of joining an Internet café, even of getting a telephone. Then, against my better judgment, I reached for my calculator. A quick calculation brought me to the same amount mentioned before: about R50,000 in savings. That’s an obscene amount! A real possibility to start paying off my debt!

Then I thought, there’s no way I can hold out for another year in this place. And what about my plans to go to Cape Town, and to spend a few weeks at home, and going to Europe?

That brought me to another tender matter. A day or three ago I thought whatever I was going to do after Korea should be considered in the context of the bigger picture: What am I planning to do with my life over the next few years?


Thursday, 6 March 1997

To think of the long-term – of staying here another ten months – is an abstract thought. September … August, are just flashing images. I don’t find it hard to motivate myself for it, especially when I think of what would come next.

The short-term – like the next two classes – is a challenge for me as far as motivation is concerned. It’s concrete. It’s look up, look here, look there, look down, say something, give someone a dirty look, get up, walk around, and feel how the seconds … tick … by. Then I think, okay, only two more classes … and then … basically, nothing.

I need something to motivate myself – concrete motivation for the here-and-now.

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Okay, the latrine hits the air conditioner

Tuesday, 14 January 1997

Okay, this is how it is. It’s the 14th, and my payday for December was on the third. They still owe me over half of my salary for December. From all the bits of information I’ve read between the lines, my salary is not a priority.

This morning I asked [the owner of the school’s son] whether I will receive my salary for January on February 3rd. His answer was, and I quote: “Sure, maybe …”

“Sure, maybe”? What the fuck does that mean?! Sure, maybe I’m doing a job that’s so boring I’m on the verge of a nervous breakdown, and when I ask about the payment for the work I do, I’m told that maybe I’ll get paid on time for it!

I’ll tell you what I’ll do with this information: Within a few days of getting my money for February, I’ll fly back to Johannesburg. That’s what I’ll do with this information!

Wednesday, 15 January 1997

The fact is, even if I get paid late for a specific month, I still need that money. It annoys me endlessly that my salary is seemingly not a priority, but it will be part of just another chapter of my life within the foreseeable future, and I’ll be on a flight to somewhere with a gin and tonic in my hand – made possible with money I had earned here. Even if I only get paid two weeks after I was supposed to.

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